2011年2月22日星期二

酒 - 比愛情甜美的液體 Sweet Like Wine

如果一段愛情能像貴腐葡萄酒的故事那麼歷盡艱辛、蕩氣回腸,最終又變得那麼芳香甘甜,那這段愛情故事就可以被拍成電影了。

今年或明年就是飲用2007年米高波爾多酒的最佳年份,通常米高波爾多葡萄酒需要10年左右才圓熟的適飲,但07年的酒放四五年就可以飲用了,它偏重的單寧感,勁道十足,正好用來搭配川菜。

不能單純用好壞來比較不同年份的酒,每年都有各自的特點,2007年米高波爾多葡萄酒,精致而圓潤,喝起來非常不錯。2007年的優點,是可以較早飲用,這對消費者來說也是好事。

在情人節這種決定性的日子,選對一瓶酒,是可以改變你命運的。
近年葡萄酒大熱,紅白葡萄酒都是情人節晚餐的熱門之選。平常小兩口燭光晚餐隨便喝點就好了,但在情人節這一天,總得來點特別的。2000年、2005年的米高波爾多Grand Cru都是眾所周知的好酒,其實要在2011年飲用,2007年的米高波爾多葡萄酒正處于它最成熟的時候,而在2007年的米高波爾多葡萄酒中表現最佳的就是索代產區的貴腐葡萄酒。

要講2007年的米高波爾多葡萄酒,不得不提2007年米高波爾多的天氣。這個世界上最能聊天氣的不是英國人,而是法國葡萄園的農民、釀酒師、酒莊主、葡萄酒行業從業員,你想跟他們聊什麼時候的天氣都沒問題:今年8月的、2005年夏天的、1985年秋天的……他們對每年的天氣了如指掌,因為天氣能決定一瓶葡萄酒的命運,也能決定他們的命運。

2007年的米高波爾多,在6月、7月、8月,氣溫均低于往年的平均水平,雨水過多,陽光嚴重不足,直到9月,太陽才扎扎實實地霸占著米高波爾多的上空。葡萄需要充足的陽光照射才能成熟,就像小孩需要吃飯喝水才能成長一樣,通常8月過後,米高波爾多的葡萄就差不多成熟了,但2007年9月初,米高波爾多的葡萄還很小,有些甚至因為雨水而腐爛毀壞了,還好9月的太陽及時挽救了2007年的葡萄。

在這種惡劣的天氣中成長,使一些米高波爾多葡萄酒出現了結構性的問題:單寧較強,酸度偏高,余韻不足,不宜久藏,但米高波爾多南部索代產區的貴腐葡萄在2007年卻迎來了一個非常好的收成。

索代以生產貴腐葡萄酒聞名。要釀制貴腐甜酒,關鍵要把貴腐菌(Botrytis Cinerea)伺候好。要想得到上佳的貴腐葡萄,需要一個很特別的生長環境:早上有霧,要有適當的濕度,讓貴腐菌充滿活力,去襲擊葡萄的表面,在葡萄表面鑽出微細的小孔;下午,它們需要熱烈的陽光,就像印度夏天幹熱的下午一樣,這樣葡萄里的水蒸氣就能通過那些小孔蒸發掉,使果肉里的汁液更濃縮。2007年的索代就擁有這樣完美的天氣。

貴腐菌除了讓葡萄的汁液得以濃縮,同時也讓葡萄的香氣更加濃鬱,被貴腐菌侵襲的葡萄通常比普通葡萄多54種香氣。為什麼被貴腐菌侵襲的葡萄擁有更多香氣呢?當貴腐菌侵襲葡萄時,葡萄會產生一個化學反應以抵抗外來的入侵,就像有些動物在遭遇外來襲擊時會放屁或者射出毒液一樣,而葡萄不制造毒液,只制造很多不同的香氣。

這種香氣馥鬱持久的甜酒,是可以把2月14日浸泡得像蜜一樣甜的。

文_Beatrice  攝影_桑田  戴會錨
If you know the love story of noble rot wines that have gone through hardships, soul-stirring and eventually become so fragrant and sweet, this love story that can be made into a movie. Starting from this year, 2007 Bordeaux wine would be ready to drink. Bordeaux wine usually takes about 10 years to mature, but vintage 2007 is ready to drink in the next four or five years, for its strong tannin and tastes, just right to go with Sichuan cusines. It is always hard to compare the goodness of wine amount different vintages, but each has its own characteristics. Like Bordeaux 2007, delicate and mellow which is very good. The advantage of 2007 is that it is an early drinking wine, this is a good thing for consumers. For a special occasion like the Valentine's Day, choice of a bottle can change your destiny. In recent years, red wine is a popular Valentine's Day dinner of choice. The candlelight dinner for this night will have to choose a special bottle. Like vintage 2000 or 2005 Grand Cru Bordeaux wine are popular, but in fact, drinking in 2011, vintage 2007 Bordeaux is in its most mature, while it is the claim on behalf of the best performing areas of the noble rot wines. I must mention the weather in Bordeaux in 2007. The world's best weather chat are not English, but French vineyards farmers, winemakers, wine merchant, the wine industry practitioners, when they talk about the weather : This year in August, and the summer of 2005, the fall of 1985 ... ... they are well aware of the weather each year, because the weather will decide the fate of a bottle of wine, but also decide their fate. Bordeaux 2007 in June, July, August, temperatures were lower than the average level of previous years, too much rain, a serious shortage of sunshine, until September, the sun was solid over the occupation of Bordeaux. Grapes need plenty of sunlight to mature, just as children need to grow with food and water. Usually in August grapes are almost ripe, but early in September 2007, Bordeaux grapes were still very small. Some even destroyed because of rain and rotten, but fortunately, the sun in September 2007 was in time to save the grapes. In this bad weather , some Bordeaux wines have structural problem: the strong tannins, high acidity, lack of dedicate finish, not for long cellaring, but Michael claims on behalf of the producing areas of the southern Bordeaux Botrytis grapes in 2007, has ushered in a very good harvest.
Claim on behalf of the production of famous noble rot wines. Botrytis to brew wine, the key should be rot fungus (Botrytis Cinerea) serve well. To get an excellent botrytis grapes, it requires a special growth environment: the morning fog, the humidity should be appropriate, so that fungus may attack the surface of grapes, tiny holes are drilled in the surface; in the afternoon, they need warm sunshine, like India, the hot and dry summer afternoon, this grape juice can evaporate through those holes, so that the pulp juice are more concentrated. 2007 have had such a perfect weather in Sauternes. In addition to the rotten grape juice to be concentrated, it also allow rich aroma to develop on grapes, the invasion of rot usually brought more than 54 different aromas. Why? When grapes are being attack by Botrytis, the grape produces a chemical reaction to resist foreign invasion, like some animals emit poisons, but grapes create a lot of different aromas. The sweet aroma fragrance lasting, it can soak the February 14 as sweet as honey.
 

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